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Culver City

La Isla Bonita Taco Truck ~ Venice

10:06 AM PDT on September 13, 2006

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Rose Ave. Btw. 3rd & 4th St. ~ Venice, CA.

The Westside is a little light in the taco truck department until you hit Culver City's stretch on Washington or the taco trifecta at Barrington. Besides Lincoln's mainstay, La Oaxaquena, and a taco truck in the Fox Swap Meet parking lot, La Isla Bonita seems the only other shoreside game north of the airport.

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It sits sleepily on Rose Ave...perchance dreaming of San Pedro? La Isla is generally pretty popular and slings mariscos along with traditional Mexi-fare out of a van with hot hand-painted octopi among other characters. Tacos come hot and fast at $1.25, accompained by a large pepper, grilled onions, and spicy pickled carrots and radish. The pastor seemed to make the smallest impression on me; its Lilliputian cuts of tough, red-stained pork reminding me of Baco Bits, which although roasted nicely, lacked crunch and definitive flavor, plus they were very oily. Done in three bites, it was a spicy number that really failed to impress.