Birria, al-pastor, and Tijuana-style tacos long ago took over Los Angeles, staking claims to different corners with adobo-slathered trompos, creamy guacamole, and crispy-edged quesabirria. So when a different style pops up in this tacopolis, you take notice. And what we noticed in this uncharacteristic taco void part of Boyle Heights is that the rise of Sonora-style tacos and dogos slowly continues in L.A.
At the corner of Soto and 6th, you will find Super Carne Asada Panchos. It’s a lone taco stand where you’ll hear the rhythmic chopping of asada as Francisco Alcantar Chavez wields two cleavers at the same unrelenting pace as a standup drummer smashing the toms in a full banda. He has a grill for the asada, a griddle for tortillas, and a steamer full of soft dogo buns for his Sonora-style hot dogs.
Since he was 13 years old, Alcantar grew up working as a taquero in Cajeme, Obregon, Sonora. He now lives in Norwalk with his wife, Carmen Perez Ramirez, who works alongside him, running the taco stand alone when they’re not busy raising their two children. The menu features the tacos and dogos Alcantar has been making his whole life with “el sazón de Cajeme,” as his slogan spells out.
Since Cajeme is closer to Sinaloa, you’ll see that reflected in these tacos. They’re more like the ones at Tacos La Carreta and less like those at Sonoratown. If you understand anything about the taco-verse, it’s that every taco has its nuances. Here for example, you may expect some chopped red onion mixed in with the cabbage topping, but Alcantar skips it.
Among the menu of tacos, mulitas, and burritos, you’ll also find Sonoran classics like a taco toro with fresh roasted Anaheim chile and melted cheese. You can also get a burrito version of this called "El Burrito Percheron." Chavez will also wrap it in bacon if you ask.
You’ll also find a lorenza, similar to a vampiro, with a toasted corn tortilla and added beans. Every plate comes with a small, complimentary, buttered baked potato. If that's not enough for you spud lovers, they have the bigger loaded papa locas, too. You can choose asada, pastor, chicken, and tripa on top, but go with the asada, which is diesmillo sprinkled with coarse salt as it grills over smoky mesquite.
Whichever taco style you get will be topped with the Sonoran signature chopped cabbage and a splash of steaming, brothy red tomato salsa. You can also choose between flour or corn tortillas, but the flour is the more Sonoran move. When asked where Chavez procures his flour tortillas, Chavez is hesitant to admit he obtains them from an individual who makes them personally for him at his home.
You also don’t want to miss out on the pillowy bolillos sourced from Sonora that he keeps in the warming tray for his dogos. You can get the regular dogo with a nice thick, snappy bite. Or you can get it with an Anaheim chile with melted cheese or choriqueso. Or go full momia, for a dog wrapped like a mummy.
The link is placed in a flour tortilla with cheese, then wrapped in bacon, and then topped with the usual options of grilled onions, red onions, chopped tomatoes, mustard, mayo, and ketchup in that beautiful bolillo. If you want to make it fully Sonoran, extra toppings are available like crushed hot Cheetos, nacho cheese, cotija cheese, a special salsa, a crema with corn, and chopped cucumber and ham in a soy sauce reduced with lime.
Super Carne Asada Panchos has been open for six months and is quickly building a following. Chavez tell us he pops up in Boyle Heights, and not in his local hood of Norwalk due to its strict anti-street vending laws. It’s a shame for Norwalk, which is missing out.
Super Carne Asada Panchos ~ 607 S. Soto St. Los Angeles, CA
Open Tuesday through Sunday, from 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. Super Carne Asada Panchos is not affiliated with Carne Asada Panchos Lopez.
