Birria, al-pastor, and Tijuana-style tacos long ago took over Los Angeles, staking claims to different corners with adobo-slathered trompos, creamy guacamole, and crispy-edged quesabirria. So when a different style pops up in this tacopolis, you take notice. And what we noticed in this uncharacteristic taco void part of Boyle Heights is that the rise of Sonora-style tacos and dogos slowly continues in L.A.
At the corner of Soto and 6th, you will find Super Carne Asada Panchos. It’s a lone taco stand where you’ll hear the rhythmic chopping of asada as Francisco Alcantar Chavez wields two cleavers at the same unrelenting pace as a standup drummer smashing the toms in a full banda. He has a grill for the asada, a griddle for tortillas, and a steamer full of soft dogo buns for his Sonora-style hot dogs.
Since he was 13 years old, Alcantar grew up working as a taquero in Cajeme, Obregon, Sonora. He now lives in Norwalk with his wife, Carmen Perez Ramirez, who works alongside him, running the taco stand alone when they’re not busy raising their two children. The menu features the tacos and dogos Alcantar has been making his whole life with “el sazón de Cajeme,” as his slogan spells out.
Since Cajeme is closer to Sinaloa, you’ll see that reflected in these tacos. They’re more like the ones at Tacos La Carreta and less like those at Sonoratown. If you understand anything about the taco-verse, it’s that every taco has its nuances. Here for example, you may expect some chopped red onion mixed in with the cabbage topping, but Alcantar skips it.