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Brisket Pupusas Bring Ray’s BBQ Back to Its Salvadoran Roots in Huntington Park

“This is a special item that we kind of gate-kept,” says Sebastian Ramirez of the giant masa treats stuffed with stretchy mozzarella, Salvadoran frijoles de seda, and hand-chopped brisket that’s been smoked for 16-18 hours on post oak in the bellies of Ray’s two behemoth J&R Smoke-Masters. 

2:26 PM PDT on May 13, 2025

A pupusa cut in half showing brisket and red beans, with curtido and salsa all over the top.

Brisket and red bean pupusas at Ray’s BBQ. Photo by Hadley Tomicki.

The secret is out. 

Ray’s BBQ, one of L.A.’s de facto authorities in Texas-style smoked meats, also makes pupusas packed with tender brisket. 

The pupusas are only offered on Saturdays at the Huntington Park restaurant and can only be made by the hands of Anabell Ramirez, matriarch of the family-run business, which she launched in 2014 with her late husband, Rene Ramirez.