A rosca de reyes is traditionally a crown of yeast and flour, usually decorated with crispy diamonds of sugary powder and jewel-like strips made of multicolored candied fruit peels and figs, guavas, and cherries. Inside one of the slices of this circular loaf of bread is a bite-size plastic toy baby meant to represent Jesus. The person who gets the slice with the inedible toy will owe his family or friends a tamales party on Dia de la Candelaría on February 2nd.
This old-school tradition is the center of El Día de Los Reyes Magos (Three Kings Day), which follows the tradition of eating tamales during Christmas. In many ways, it is an extension of the holiday season into the new year in many homes across Los Angeles.
The holiday's origin is a wild biblical story that involves the murder of infants. But the short version is that three magic reyes (kings) visit baby Jesus because the stars told them the babe was the new king on the block. The hidden figurine represents when lil’ baby J hid from a grumpy old king who was trying to kill all the babies. But he lived! Until he didn’t… until he did again!
So now we get king bread and tamales.
Even if you aren’t religious, anyone is willing to believe that the baby Jesus would have wanted more tamales and more parties for you in the future. La Rosca, as it is commonly called, is part of a tradition that, for many more of us, becomes an excellent excuse to eat more dense sweet bread, with steaming champurrado and maybe a generous pour of mezcal for good measure.
In Mexico’s traditionalist culture, “the holidays” extend from December 12 (the Virgen de Guadalupe feast day) to February 2, Dia de la Candelaría (Candlemas). And in between, you get Nochebuena (Christmas Eve), Christmas Day, and Three Kings Day (January 6), when kids usually get toys or other gifts—a key distinction to the American tradition of presents for kids on Christmas Day.
The taste of the rosca depends on the baker. It will generally have some citrus and spices like cinnamon, anise, and clove. The bread part of mass-produced rosca tastes like something in between a concha and pan de muerto. Some roscas can be bagel-like, and other roscas can be eggier and softer. The candied fruit on top of the rosca is like a fancy Fruit Roll-up, and the ends are crunchy from baking. A rosca is always better when dunked in some steaming chocolate, coffee, or atole.
In Los Angeles, the rosca tradition is becoming popular. The bread is big enough to share with a large group. If well covered, it can be kept for days so that you can sustain the spirit of Three Kings Day with rosca and coffee in the morning. In New Orleans, they have a well-known version called King's Cake. However, theirs is traditionally stuffed with a brown sugar-and-cream cheese filling.
Roscas in L.A. are available at Latin American grocers or your local panadería. They are usually only sold during the week leading up to the celebration or the first week of the year. So get out there and get one of these bad boys, and hope to sweet baby Jesus that you don’t have to buy the tamales (but if you do, here’s a list).
Gusto Bread~ Long Beach
One thing about Gusto Bread in Long Beach is that when it comes to conchas, pan de muerto, or any seasonal bread in general, they do it all in the best way they can, but more importantly, with 100% heart. As they say themselves, their work is a true labor of love. It shows in their daily bread, including in their yearly individual-sized rosquitas de reyes. Each year, they take their masa madre pan dulce dough made from the yeast of wine grapes in the Valle de Guadalupe and mix it with stone-milled flour, farmers market eggs, orange, vanilla, and local butter, then ferment them overnight and shape them into the traditional ring the next day. Once proofed, they top the treats with strips of cacao frosting, cranberries, pearled sugar, and sliced almonds. Pair one with some of their house-roasted Cafe Cuate café de olla or unwatered down chocolate de agua for added euphoria. Their roscas are available throughout January but are known to sell out, so get there early. Also, there is no plastic figurine.
2710 E 4th St. Long Beach, CA 90814
Closest transit lines: Long Beach Transit Line 151 - "4th/Temple", Long Beach Transit Lines 91, 92, 93, and 94 - "7th/Temple."
La Monarca Bakery ~ Multiple Locations
One panadería that consistently delivers a tender rosca de reyes is La Monarca Bakery, which has multiple locations across Los Angeles. They were the first Mexican bakery in Los Angeles to use real butter and eggs (as opposed to commercial mixes or hydrogenated fats, which many other bakeries use). That philosophy applies to their roscas as well. This year, La Monarca is selling a concha-hybrid rosca to give you the best of both worlds. It has the fluffiness of a concha with the candied fruit strips of a traditional rosca. They also have a walnut rosca that includes traditional pan dulce dough with a cookie crust and walnuts, and, of course, the little roscas also come with a baby Jesus figurine.
Los Angelitos Bakery ~ Huntington Park
Los Angelitos Bakery in Huntington Park has grabbed its community's hearts and antojos (cravings) with its warm and sweet pan dulce. Like many on this list, the bakery is family-owned, beginning with a father and son who migrated from Cuba to Los Angeles seeking refuge. Opening its doors in 1992, Los Angelitos has done an incredible job creating some of the best pan dulce. From its pride conchas to their famous pan de muerto, its bread speaks for itself and is perfect for any occasion, including yearly festivities like Dia De los Reyes Magos. Here, it sells the traditional giant loop rosca and a cupcake version with the toppings of a rosca on each cupcake and individual rosquitas.
2881 E. Florence Ave. Huntington Park, CA 90255
Closest Metro lines and stop: Bus Lines 111 and 251 - "Florence/Mountain View", Bus Lines 102 and 611 - "Florence/Seville", Bus Line 60 - "Pacific/Florence."
Porto’s ~ Multiple Locations
The renowned Cuban bakery chain Porto’s sells a super moist Rosca de Reyes, available for pick-up the first week of January, but as always, check their Instagram for updated dates. Their roscas are so iconic that in 2018, they made Los Angeles history by creating a 24-foot-long, 125-pound rosca. If you aren’t feeling like getting the large traditional baked bread, Porto’s also sells their rosquitas, a personal rosca that’s the perfect size to dip in a hot drink. For something a little bit more special, ask for their galleta de reyes and enjoy buttery layers of puff pastry dough filled with a layer of rich California almond frangipane cream and Porto’s signature guava jam.
El Aguila Bakery ~ El Sereno
We can’t talk about iconic, family-owned panaderías in Los Angeles without mentioning this community gem, Panadería El Aguila. The bakery has been in the Casillas/Flores family since 1973 and oversees 51 years of tradition and decades-old recipes. Like many panaderías, their owners go back three generations, so you know the dedication and pride that goes into each recipe and loaf, including its seasonal pan de muerto and rosca de reyes, all 100% pure. They offer two rosca sizes, large and medium, and they come adorned with candied fruit and thick stripes of sweet vanilla-flavored topping. Last January, the bakery jumped on the Star Wars craze and made a limited edition baby Yoda figurine to replace the traditional baby Jesus. There's no word if it’s coming back this year, but you can count on their traditional rosca being there.
5028 Huntington Dr. S Los Angeles, CA 90032
Closest Metro lines and stop: Bus Lines 78 and 179 - "Huntington/Portola (eastbound)" or "Huntington/Tampico (westbound)", Bus Line 665 - "Huntington/Eastern."
La Flor De Yucatán Bakery ~ Pico Union
La Flor De Yucatán Bakery has been around for 60 years, specializing in Yucatán-style dishes, including tamales, a famous cochinita pibil, and bread. For special festivities like Dia de Los Reyes Magos, you will find the Burgo family baking a traditional rosca de reyes. While you will find other recipes, including strips of candied fruit, they add pineapple slices topped with cherries for an added tartness that pairs great with the sweetness of the bread and other ingredients. They also have a rosca de carnaval, which is a Mardi Gras-style rosca that is covered in icing and purple, green, and yellow colored sugar. You can also get the rosca normal, or with a fruit-based filling of your choice.
1800 Hoover St. Los Angeles, CA 90006
Closest Metro lines and stop: Bus Lines 2 and 603 - "Hoover/18th", Bus Line 33 - "Venice/Hoover", Bus Line 35 - "Washington/Hoover (eastbound)" or "Washington/Bonnie Brae (westbound)."
Toluca Vegan Bakery ~ Toluca Lake
Los Angeles has its fair share of bakers who offer traditional rosca de reyes in a plant-based version, free of eggs or dairy. Suppose you’re looking for more vegan options. In that case, you will want to order from Toluca Bakery, which offers traditional pan dulce and other savory menu items like this season's favorite tamales in plant-based varieties. This year, they continue to serve their vegan rosca, which comes in one size and is medium.
11365 Riverside Dr. Toluca Lake, CA 91602
Closest Metro line and stop: Bus Line 33 - "Venice/Midvale (westbound)" or "Venice/Girard (eastbound)."
Pacific French Bakery
Pacific French Bakery is known for many things. But long lines and delicious pastries are key to locating its excellent baked breads. The bakery was established in 1986 and started as a small, family-owned French bakery specializing only in French bread, rolls, and baguettes. But like many small businesses, it evolved. Eighteen years later, the business expanded and started catering more to what its community prefers.
The owners pride themselves in allowing the public to enjoy fine quality bread without high prices. And their Rosca de Reyes is one of the best ones you will find around Los Angeles. Every surface on their rosca is fully covered with sweet paste and candied fruit.
4462 E Olympic Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90023.
Closest Metro line and stop: Bus Line 66 - "Olympic/Augusta (westbound)" or "Olympic/Marianna (eastbound)."
Mariachi Bakery ~ Multiple Locations
Mariachi Bakery has multiple locations across Los Angeles and is famous for having tremendous, fresh pan dulce. According to the family behind it, the bakery was created out of a love and admiration for the food that comes from their culture. As third-generation Mexicans in the bakery business, the founders of Mariachi Bakery know their way around perfect pastries. That includes its concha de reyes, a spin on the traditional king's cake. Dusted with powdered sugar and topped with fruit, this concha de reyes can stand up there with its larger-sized counterparts.
Carrusel Bakery ~ Multiple Locations
Carrusel Bakery is your one-stop shop for a good meal, a hot drink, and well-baked bread. The menu has pupusas, pan con pollo, and pan dulce. And like many bakeries do, it sells Rosca de Reyes through the first week of January.
13923 Van Nuys Blvd. Arleta, CA 91331
Closest transit lines: Bus Line 761 - "Van Nuys/ Arleta,” Bus Line 233 - “Van Nuys/ Vena.”
Cesar Hernandez and Janette Villafana contributed to this guide.
