After hearing and seeing the multiple ICE raids that began to ravage neighborhoods across Los Angeles two weeks ago, this taquería in East L.A. acted swiftly to protect their families and employees.
“When we realized that things were getting more serious, we had a meeting with the family and decided that the best for everybody was to have our parents safe,” said Jonathan, one of the sons behind Don Cuco’s Tijuana Style Tacos. “We decided we’ll take over and run the business.”
Jonathan, his brother, two sisters, and the children of other employees announced last Friday via social media that they would be temporarily taking over the business, saying:
“We continue the work in honor of our parents.”
Two raids near their original location also prompted the heroic and heartfelt decision.
“They've been nearby, one of our colleagues, Jason’s Tacos, was hit,” Jonathan said about the first reported food truck that ICE raided last Thursday. “It affects our workers; They're scared. We don’t know what to expect anymore if they're going to catch us by surprise. This is impacting us, hard-working people.”
The 32-year-old taquero has spent the last week working double shifts with his siblings. If he isn’t attending to customer orders, he checks his phone for updates on ICE sightings or is actively looking to hire help.
“It’s been a stressful week. I have to be on my toes and constantly check social media to take care of my team,” he told L.A. TACO Sunday night. “I really felt that East L.A. was going to be protected because we depend on so many immigrants here, but nowhere feels safe now.”
The fear is understandable with ICE being known for racially profiling even citizens, the streets don’t feel the same for many, especially in communities like East L.A., where the Latino community makes up more than 90% of the population, according to the U.S. Census Bureau.
Taquerías like Don Cuco’s and other taco stands that start in the streets before venturing into the brick-and-mortar industry make up 40% of California’s immigrant entrepreneurial workforce. They are one of many local businesses and street vendors trying to figure out how to continue working without putting themselves, their employees, and customers in danger.
Adjusting to their new roles has not been easy for these kids, and they have had to improvise as they go. One took over the trompo and grill, another took orders, while some heated tortillas and chopped the meat.
“It was very hard and very tough because we had a brand new team, and you don’t have time to teach, and we had all these lines,” he said while taking a much-needed break around 10 P.M. on Sunday. “We have people who are daily customers, so they know our team, and when they saw all these new faces, they were like, what's going on?”
Certain elements make Don Cuco’s tacos the glory that they are: Their charred meats, a quality spinning trompo, handmade tortillas, and their iconic salsa voladora (flying salsa).
Jonathan said that the first night the kids took over, there was none of that. For the first time in years, they had no handmade tortillas; Instead, they had to use store-bought ones, and while still available, the flying salsa that entertained your eyes and taste buds was no longer perfectly flicked onto a taco with ease.
“One of the hardest challenges without our parents is having to cover their roles, and now that we’re two, three people less, it makes a huge difference because we don’t all know how to do what they do,” he said. “Our clients have been more than understanding. We are extremely blessed to have a community that backs us up; they know that we can't provide our taco at its full potential right now, but it's only temporary.”
However, one detail that has not changed, even during these difficult times when it feels easier to cry and be angry than to smile and laugh, is the taco stand's friendly and welcoming attitude.
Arriving at their stand feels like visiting old family members; They crack jokes with their customers and have deep conversations about everything happening in the community. L.A. TACO witnessed this on Sunday when one of their regular customers, Noe Hernandez, stopped by to check in on his local taquero and to order his favorite, a loaded burrito de asada.
“Como han estado,” “How have you been?,” Hernandez asked Jonathan while waiting for his order. For him, it’s essential to support businesses like this taco stand because he believes these communities are among the most vulnerable, as they often work on the streets. Leaving them exposed to being spotted.
“It’s important to support and help each other out because we all have needs, and there are a lot of people who depend on the money they make, not everyone can take a day off,” said Hernandez in Spanish before digging into his burrito. “Places like this that feed us and provide a service to our community, we have to support them. These are people with dreams that came here to work hard, not steal.”
For many customers like Hernandez, taco stands like Don Cuco’s have become a place to grab dinner and a safe space to decompress and be in community with others who have similar fears.
“This situation has only made us hold on to our families and community even tighter,” said Johnathan. “Seeing how so many families are being broken up is tragic.”
The taquero said that their entire operation has changed; if they have catering events, they escort employees to and from the event to ensure they get there safely.
“I feel like at night it's when it feels a little bit safer, only because I haven't heard of many raids happening at night, at least so far,” he said.
This past Sunday, the handmade tortillas returned, and the lines continued to form. Graduates walked in decked out in their regalia, choosing to celebrate their special day with their parents at their favorite taco stand. Every few minutes, cars still cruising on Sunday passed by, waving their Mexican flags before wheeling out of the parking lot. Occasionally, one would stop to support the taco stand.
The gestures made by these immigrant kids, the beloved taco stand, and community-led protests represent L.A.'s resilience and strength. For now, the taco stand is only opening its East L.A. location, and they are taking it one day at a time when it comes to deciding when to go out, where, and who will be working.
“We’re hanging in there, pushing through it,” said Jonathan. “But we leave this in God's hands, and let’s see what this week has for us, because this last week was one hell of a week. But we're not going to stop.”
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