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Tacos

Try This Unforgettable Hatch Chile Taco In NELA’s ‘American Heritage Cooking’ Restaurant

Despite the controversy of Dunsmoor when it first opened, It’s a variety of a taco that is hard to find in L.A.: An actual Southwest-style taco that deserves some respect, especially during Hatch chile season. If not for the taste of the taco itself that represents New Mexico, then for all the people who make up that state, including the 23 federally recognized tribes that have taken care of that land—and planted green chiles—for thousands of years.  

11:00 AM PDT on August 29, 2025

Dunsmoor green chili pork.

Dunsmoor green chili pork. Photo by Javier Cabral for L.A. TACO.

I was genuinely surprised to discover one of the best New Mexico-style tacos in L.A I’ve ever tasted at Dunsmoor in Glassell Park. 

Even more surprising is that this restaurant, which faced community backlash when it first opened after being accused of contributing to gentrification in an otherwise suburban part of northeast Los Angeles, serves a dish so remarkable that it lives in my taco cravings months after eating it: “Aunt Emmy’s Pork & Green Chili Stew,” served with handmade flour tortillas, made with butter, and toasted to order.

Walking into Dunsmoor on Eagle Rock Boulevard, I wasn’t sure what to expect. The space has a warm, rustic charm, featuring wooden tables and soft lighting, located next to a brewery known for its unique beers made with wild herbs.