I was genuinely surprised to discover one of the best New Mexico-style tacos in L.A I’ve ever tasted at Dunsmoor in Glassell Park.
Even more surprising is that this restaurant, which faced community backlash when it first opened after being accused of contributing to gentrification in an otherwise suburban part of northeast Los Angeles, serves a dish so remarkable that it lives in my taco cravings months after eating it: “Aunt Emmy’s Pork & Green Chili Stew,” served with handmade flour tortillas, made with butter, and toasted to order.
Walking into Dunsmoor on Eagle Rock Boulevard, I wasn’t sure what to expect. The space has a warm, rustic charm, featuring wooden tables and soft lighting, located next to a brewery known for its unique beers made with wild herbs.
I was aware of the controversy surrounding its opening in June 2022. Local residents, fearing gentrification, protested the restaurant’s arrival, worried it would transform Glassell Park into another Highland Park. I understand their fears—gentrification can erode a neighborhood’s character and push out those who’ve called it home for generations. Yet, I came for the food after hearing that one of their investors offered legal services to the owner of Taquería Frontera so he can protect himself as soon as the ICE raids started. That kind of real support and allyship is invaluable.
And what I found was extraordinary. A bowl filled to the brim with bubbling, shredded Pead’s and Barnett pork stewed in Hatch green chile that actually packs a punch.