[dropcap size=big]W[/dropcap]hen Animal opened in 2008, it caused an absolute frenzy of media attention, based largely on its wildly meat-heavy menu. Just about every menu item had meat in it, including the “bacon chocolate crunch bar” for dessert — that one got the lion’s share of the attention even though (are you shocked) it’s nowhere near the best dish at Animal. And the mains aren’t just meaty, they’re downright aggressive in their decadence: bone marrow, veal brains, pig’s ear with egg, and a big, delicious platter of pork ribs with a lick-the-plate-worthy balsamic barbecue sauce. The thing is, the two founding chefs weren’t just being outrageous when they developed this menu. They were up to the task, creating something really interesting amongst all that indulgence. (There are three different foie gras-centric dishes on the menu.) The pared-down dining room fades away as you behold dinner and, probably, ponder man’s dominion over animals. Eating here is a heady experience.
435 N. Fairfax Ave., Fairfax
(323) 782-9225
http://www.animalrestaurant.com/
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