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This Underground, Seven-Course Omakase In An El Sereno Front Yard Features Tom Yum Aguachile and Cacao Sopes

Evil Cooks' specially-tailored dinner pop-ups are an excuse to be creative, unshackling their culinary artistry with dishes so splendid and eye-catching, that you may come to the conclusion that they've sold their soul down in Georgia.

2:48 PM PDT on May 30, 2024

Tom yum aguachile. Photo by Memo Torres for L.A. TACO.

Tom yum aguachile. Photo by Memo Torres for L.A. TACO.

Taqueros are chefs, too.

In the foothills of El Sereno, behind a black iron fence anchored in brick, a black EZ-UP canopy stands propped in front of a home, with two tables set up long ways and plastic party stools painted black. The scene is set for a dozen guests, who will come together for one-of-a-kind L.A. dining experience on a Saturday evening.

There’s no menu or hint of what to expect. Just two Evil Cooks, Elvia Huerta and Alex Garcia, love birds full of creativity and a passion for wild new ideas. This is the taqueros' version of an omakase experience, or as I'm naming it for them: "The Kamikaze."