In the wake of Kogi Korean BBQ's astronomical ascent in the early aughts, L.A.'s streets became littered with bad tortillas struggling to hem in the weight of entire nations' worth of ingredients, all vying for the same cross-cultural triumph. Most of these experiments were eventually ditched, left to fade away in the potholes of our more haunted synapses.
Mideast Tacos, which brandishes the flavors of Armenian khorovats in the form of Mexican food, remains one of this city's scant taco-fusion success stories, cherished by local food voices and the people who follow them into long lines at Smorgasburg alike.
Where others failed, Mideast Tacos thrives on a dedication to good cooking and great tortillas. Like Roy Choi before, the concept is driven by love for the city where its owner was bred and spread. Something the bandwagon buccaneers just can't fake.