Victor Villa, the taquero behind three-time TACO MADNESS champions Villa’s Tacos, is opening his third taquería—just up the street from his original location in Highland Park, where he started selling tacos on the street. This time, though, he is delving into memories of visiting his family home by the beach in Rosarito for the menu.
“Baja fish tacos have always been a favorite for me, “Villa tells L.A. TACO as he gets ready to open for service on Thursday. “So Villa’s Tacos #3 is my version of that, but with my signature organic blue corn tortillas and salsas, like my hibiscus-pickled onions.”
Villa officially opened last Sunday with a ribbon-cutting ceremony featuring live banda, dancing, and free beer for his loyal customers. More than 3,000 people came out to support him, happily waiting hours to try his fish, shrimp, and octopus tacos. They also took photos in front of the restaurant’s soon-to-be iconic murals, in which local artists depict Freddy Freeman’s recent grand slam in the World Series and a sleeping Mexican on a saguaro next to a lowrider, among other things.
“Seeing so many people come out to celebrate us was humbling,” Villa says. “Many wore vintage Villa’s Tacos merch I haven’t seen in years.”
The guests of honor were the parents of the Zuniga brothers. Their two sons tragically lost their lives while crossing the street in front of their home, just a few blocks away from the taquería in a hit-and-run in 2019.
“When I first heard the lives of their only sons were tragically cut short in 2019 at the same time, I threw a fundraiser for them, and I’ve never forgotten them,” Villa says. “I wanted [the] parents to know they are not forgotten and never will be, so I’m dedicating this restaurant to them.”
Villa has both of their names, those of Jesse Felix Zuniga, 19, and Benigno Felix Zuniga, 25, written on the window of Villa’s Tacos #3, as well as a dedication to them in Spanish and English. Villas’ first restaurant was dedicated to his grandfather, Alberto Pineda Celis, and the second restaurant at Grand Central Market to his daughters, Scarlett and Valentine.
Villa says the secret to the new seafood menu is all in the batter he uses for his mahi-mahi and shrimp taco. He also fries in rice bran oil, which is renowned for its health benefits (compared to soybean or canola oil), which is nutty, has a light flavor and is allergen-friendly.
However, he’s the most proud of his “Mar y Tierra” taco, featuring grilled Mediterranean seabass and A5 wagyu. He tells L.A. TACO that the food costs for this third taquería are higher than his first two and that he doesn’t break even on this bougie $10 taco. Still, he’s happy to eat the cost to pass that luxury experience to his working-class customers.
He’s also offering a couple of aguas frescas exclusive to this location, including a Oaxacan-style [dairy-free] horchata and an agua de tamarindo made with the freshly hulled pulp of tamarind pods. He also has a few enticing vegetarian options, like a sweet potato taco and one with mushrooms.
“Remember, you get things the right way at Villa’s, even if it's a lot more work,” Villa says.
He thinks it's those little details that most people brush over that have earned his spot in Michelin’s coveted Bib Gourmand guide year after year.
Villa also couldn’t be prouder that someone born and raised in Highland Park took over the location of a taquería he grew up going to, Tacos La Estrella. He saved his money and bought the building to ensure Villa’s Tacos #3 stays in the gentrifying neighborhood for a long time.
At the opening, Victor shared a particular experience with a customer, also from Highland Park, who went up to him and told him, “I’m so glad someone from the neighborhood took over this restaurant. I can’t wait to take my kids here like I grew up eating here.”
“Those moments make it all worth it,” Villa says.
6100 N Figueroa St. Los Angeles, CA 90042
Artists behind murals:
Neon signs: Del Prado Signs
