Irori ~ 4731 Glencoe Ave. ~ Marina Del Rey
A Japanese taco isn't such a strange sight. Even Nobu's into tacos. Neither is the tempura fish taco an anomaly, given all that we know about the influence of Japanese fishermen on Baja's favorite battered export (and the crowd that forms for Ricky's). Nor is it totally bizarre to catch a tempura fish taco at a sushi restaurant. Frying is precise in preserving the integrity, taste and moisture of its contents, much like a dedicated itamae does by not cooking your food, while still offering all the flavor and textural benefits of an evenly browned skin. And none of these things should surprise us because, above all else, this is Los Angeles, where few tacos go unfused.
Which brings us to this taco we tried the other night at Irori, a favorite, well-priced sushi joint in Marina del Rey where you take your shoes off and get it on the floor. First of all, it's more of a tostada, but the menu calls it an ono taco. It's made with a freshly fried, puffy wonton stacked with minced onions and chilies, a fat crescent of avocado topped with a lightly fried nugget of fish under a squirt of yuzu aioli.
Chances are, you've probably had an ono taco before. It's also known as wahoo and commands an entire eponymous taco chain of its own where it's grilled and fried. But this taco is different. And better. It's like a nigiri of sweet, tenderly cooked and completely juicy fish flesh with a strong shot of citrus, cream and earthy sweetness between two wispy wheat shells. It's $6.95 and offered often as a special here. So go check it out.
