L.A.'s modern Mexican restaurants have been fighting an uphill battle since tacos first passed the $5 price line. However, today marks a noticeable turning point in the dining category, as five respected establishments in the genre have been named as esteemed semifinalists in the 2025 James Beard Awards.
Out of the nearly 50,000 Mexican restaurants that are in business in the U.S., Los Angeles continues to lead the charge when it comes to Mexican cuisine. In the last 15 years, our city's modern Mexican cooking has pointedly emerged, finding its way to people's date nights and special dining occasions.
This evolution is undoubtedly tied to the greater number of taco lovers who have made the easy, affordable three-hour-flight to Mexico City, then returned to Los Angeles with higher expectations and a more flexible appetite for paying a higher price for better quality offerings.
Pioneering restaurants that paved the way locally include Taco Maria in Orange County (which many media outlets bunched into L.A.-centered Mexican restaurant lists despite the location), Ray Garcia's Broken Spanish in Downtown L.A., and Verlaine in West Hollywood, which all eventually shuttered along the way.
Nonetheless, this national recognition of today's modern Mexican nominees in L.A. and its surrounding regions feels like sweet vindication, a counterstrike to those who hold reservations about a taco (or concha) being delicious, "but a little expensive."
Without further delay, here are the semifinalist nominees. The finalists will be announced on Wednesday, April 2, and winners will be announced at the James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards ceremony on Monday, June 16, at the Lyric Opera of Chicago, which marks the 35th anniversary of the awards.
Congratulations to all for their nominations. (We are including Heritage Barbecue in neighboring San Juan Capistrano).
Emerging Chef presented by S.Pellegrino® Sparkling Natural Mineral Water
Jesus "Chuy" Cervantes, Damian, Los Angeles, CA
Best Chef: California
Elvia Garcia and Alex Garcia, Evil Cooks
Outstanding Chef Presented by Hilton
Gilberto Cetina, Holbox, Los Angeles, CA
Outstanding Bakery
Gusto Bread, Long Beach, CA
Best Chef: California
Daniel Castillo, Heritage Barbecue, San Juan Capistrano, CA
