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Tostadas Over Tasting Menus: Holbox Is North America’s Only 50 Best List Spot Found In a Food Court

Amid ICE's terrorizing abductions in L.A.'s Brown-skinned communities, Holbox's #42 spot on North America’s 50 Best Restaurants is a monumental win for its formerly undocumented owner, chef Gilberto Cetina. His celebrated mariscos bar's affordable heirloom-corn tostadas under $20 now rival $100+ tasting menus, spotlighting immigrant grit and cultural resilience against erasure.

2:02 PM PDT on October 2, 2025

A team of cooks and servers pose in front of Holbox restaurant.

Photo via Holbox.

Holbox owner Gilberto Cetina and his team of more than 75 employees continue to make South Central and mariscos lovers extremely proud by winning yet another prestigious recognition this week: Ranking #42 on North America’s 50 Best Restaurants.

This recognition is as significant as when the nearly nine-year-old, counter-service-only, booze-free mariscos restaurant became the first dedicated Mexican marisquería to win a Michelin star in a South Central food court last year.

However, this is arguably a bigger win because “50 Best” lists are usually reserved for fine dining restaurants, where multi-course menus efficiently run a couple of hundred dollars per person, as opposed to Cetina’s tostadas and tacos, made with heirloom corn and sustainable, line-caught local fish, which each cost less than $20.

"Holbox achieves so much more than I thought it ever would,” Cetina tells L.A. TACO.

Gilberto Cetina rising to acknowledge his award when Holbox was called at the ceremony. Photo via Gilberto Cetina.