[dropcap size=big]T[/dropcap]he line outside Howlin’ Ray’s on any given day can be longer than the wait for Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey ride in the peak of summer. Alas, there are no talking portraits or hats to entertain or sort everyone into houses while waiting; it’s just you and the spectacle of the other fried chicken fiends who may or may not be sitting at one of the tables in the courtyard, sweating over their quarry. Hot chicken, for the uninitiated, is a fiery Nashville specialty, with roots at places like Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack and Bolton’s Spicy Chicken and Fish. Whether Howlin’ Ray’s version is worth the wait depends on your love for fried chicken and what other line experiences you may have had in your life — but, yes, at least within the pantheon of great L.A. fried chicken houses, Howlin’ Ray’s is among the best. The bird is juicy and tender; the batter has a beautiful crunch. As for the heat, there are six levels of spice, with pretty much everything above the mid-level Medium spicier than even the most boastful of heat seekers can handle. Accordingly, when you do make it to the top of the queue, you are advised to choose wisely. It is good advice.
727 N. Broadway #128, Chinatown
(213) 935-8399
http://www.howlinrays.com
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