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How a Former Biochemist Perfected Her Family Recipe and Introduced L.A. to Coyotas

7:04 AM PST on March 6, 2019

[dropcap size=big]I[/dropcap]n a city known for its bold, diversified culinary scene, a new dessert is representing Mexico in the streets of L.A. after making the 700-mile journey from the Sonoran desert — the coyota.

Coyotas are the very essence of Sonora. They are a staple of the northern Mexican state made from flour-based dough and filled with various sweet fillings – like cajeta, panocha (also known as piloncillo or brown sugar cane cones) and guava – and baked to a tender crisp.

It is said the name originated from the time when mestizo girls sold the dessert and were dubbed with the name coyotas. These Sonoran delights have been a well-kept secret, only enjoyed by those of us all too familiar with the dry, hot region represented by Sonora. For most non-natives, the border state in northern Mexico is stereotypically famous for narcos and flour tortillas.

When Marisela Parada, a former biochemist from Sonora, first starting selling coyotas with her husband Juan in L.A., she never imagined it would emerge a success. After just four months, they started Coyotas de Sonora a thriving Mexican pastry stand in East L.A.

All photos by Gaby Mungarro.