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What 94-Year-Old Canter’s Deli Means to These Legacy Staff Members

Canter’s staff shaped the deli into what it is today: a place where a stranger is treated like a regular, and a regular is treated like family. Here we speak with three employees with a combined 133 years working at the Fairfax landmark.

12:06 PM PST on December 15, 2025

a building sign reading "Canter's Restaurant Bakery Delicatessen"

Canter’s sign welcomes strangers and regulars all the same. Photo by Lauren Bethke for L.A. TACO.

Walking into Canter’s Delicatessen is like stepping into a warm, humming piece of L.A. history.

The original business was started by brothers Ben and Joe Canter in Jersey City, New Jersey, in 1924. After the Great Depression shuttered that first shop, the family moved west and opened Canter Brothers Delicatessen in 1931 on Brooklyn Avenue (today Cesar Chavez Boulevard) in Boyle Heights. 

As decades passed and the city changed, so did Canter’s.

By 1948, the family relocated to Fairfax Avenue—and soon afterward, in 1953, into its current home at 419 N. Fairfax Avenue, a former movie-theater building (the old Esquire Theatre).

Canter's legacy doesn’t just stop with the food but runs from the people who work there.