In the realm of Mexican food, the allure of 'homestyle' dishes is undeniable. While many establishments in L.A. may lay claim to this mystical 'sazón,’' few can truly deliver.
Gorditas Nena, though, is a crazy anomaly that doesn’t need to advertise this buzzword. Their menu, banners, and social media may not boast about it, but their Aguascalientes-style gorditas sizzle with that unmistakable homestyle 'sazón,' a deep flavor that's a testament to their culinary heritage.
“Every day we're open, my mom is up at 3 AM to ensure everything is cooked fresh,” Carlos Maldonado proudly shares with L.A. TACO on an overcast Wednesday morning outside their stand on Olympic Boulevard. “She's the one who started this business, and while we all lend a hand, it’s all her dedication to it.”
At 10 A.M., Maria del Carmen Delgadillo Maldonado is pit-patting the last of her "flying gorditas" (gorditas voladoras, as the family calls them) and throwing them on the plancha like a frisbee, which inspires giggles from her loyal hungry customers.
“My mom has been selling gorditas all of her life,” Carlos says before informing some approaching customers that the stand only has their guisado de papa (potato) left as a filling. The rest of their guisados, which are displayed on alluring clay pots next to the plancha, include nopales con costillitas, chile relleno, rajas, frijoles, and queso, but they are the most famous for their chicharrón en salsa verde or roja. Carlos also goes the from-scratch route for that, too, puffing up the chicharrón himself using slabs of pork belly; each mouthful is full of tender meat and luscious fat.