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Tasting Your Way Through Tijuana’s Vastly Underrated Local Cheese Scene and Where to Find It to Bring Back Home 

Great cheeses do not only come from Europe. It's time to shine a light on the history and wide variety of cheeses made locally with raw milk in Baja and available in Tijuana, from a jocoque reminiscent of labneh to hard, chipotle-infused Real del Castillo.

1:27 PM PDT on June 8, 2023

tijuana cheese

Photo by Javier Cabral for L.A. TACO.

Great cheeses do not only come from Europe.

Latinos in Los Angeles have always known this. Some of the earliest memories a lot of us have involve suitcases full of potent, stinky cheese brought in from our parents' home countries. All are made with raw milk, which is strangely illegal in the United States.

There are ways around this weird law, like trekking two hours south to in Tijuana to experience an equally delectable dairy culture with its own remarkable history.

Mexican cheese can be eaten for any meal of the day, from garnishing dishes to quesadillas to being served as-is—sliced as a snack. A deli just a few miles away from the Tijuana border offers at least a half dozen varieties of local, Baja-crafted cheeses made with raw milk.

Forty-three-year-old Humberto Manuel Cuevas Acosta, the owner of La Bodega de Popo Quesos, and Deli, says locals will more often than not still buy generic cheese from the supermarket, despite the region's abundance of expertly-made cheeses.