Skip to Content
Los Angeles

Understanding Today’s Los Angeles: A Story of Three Immigrants by Sam Quinones

Los Angeles Magazine published a remarkable story over the weekend by Sam Quinones. If you haven't read it yet, you should. By tracing the paths of three immigrants to Los Angeles (one from Oaxaca, one from Korea, and one from Armenia), Sam tells the story of modern Los Angeles.

Many of the most dynamic young people in the city today are the children and grandchildren of immigrants like the three profiled in the article. The struggles, sacrifices, and successes of this wave of immigration are personal, but they also affect all of us living in Los Angeles today. By delving into these personal histories, a theme emerges-- this town isn't easy, the challenges are enormous, but communities have the power to propel individuals, who in turn can help the community progress and stake its claim in the city.

Here's an excerpt:

By 1990, there were 24 Hamburger Hamlets. During that time, hundreds, probably thousands, of Zapotec peasant farmers from unpronounceable villages—Yohueche, Zoogocho—swept down the Sierra Juárez Mountains and into Los Angeles. “Many had rented out their lands back home to come here or taken out loans,” says Gonzalez.

Back home, these men wouldn’t enter a kitchen, much less cook an egg. That was women’s work. But in Los Angeles, the traditional machismo of rural Mexico withered. Hamburger Hamlet was a Zapotec Ellis Island, receiving the immigrants and teaching them restaurant basics, their first words in English (“mustard,” “ketchup,” “relish”), and confidence that they could navigate this new world.

Read the whole article here.

Stay in touch

Sign up for our free newsletter

More from L.A. TACO

ICE Re-Detains Plaintiff Out On Bond in Landmark Case Challenging L.A. ICE Raids, Sends Him Back To Adelanto

After the Supreme Court refused his challenge to ICE, Isaac Antonio Villegas Molina, a construction worker filing a lawsuit against ICE with the help of the ACLU, was detained once again during his ISAP check-in.

April 22, 2026

Four Shops Turning the San Fernando Valley Into America’s Trading Card Capital

Since the pandemic, no hobby has seemingly been hotter than trading cards. Values have soared across all brands, with sealed Pokémon products outperforming the S&P 500.

April 22, 2026

Controversial Israeli Chef Expands Miznon Across L.A.

The Israel-founded group behind Miznon is expanding its L.A. footprint with a new Culver City location, despite protests accusing the restaurant of rebranding Palestinian cuisine, and highlighting its founders’ ties to massacres in Gaza.

April 21, 2026

Five L.A. Menus to Stretch Your Recession-Era Dollar

Recession menus are the new happy hours. Here's how restaurants in L.A. are coping with today's economy, from Long Beach to West Covina.

April 20, 2026

From the Kitchen to the Octagon: One L.A. Chef’s Journey Into the World of Mixed Martial Arts

Chef Walther Adrianzen survived a diabetic coma. He then lost more than 30 lbs. and fought in his first mixed martial arts match.

April 19, 2026
See all posts