Up the street from Poly High School stands a new street food staple on Atlantic Avenue. At a glance it looks like yet another new taco operation popping up to join Long Beach’s recent taco boom.
Then you peek through your rearview mirror as you pass, half-interested, and glimpse a blue-and-white, horizontally-striped flag hung before the white truck that is parked in front of it. An abrupt, and possibly illegal, u-turn brings that flag into focus.
Though Latin American vexillology may not be your forté, you nimbly deduce that the flag belongs to a Central American country. Despite seeing “tacos” and “enchiladas” on the menu, there’s no flaming trompo to be found or bubbling disco de suadero to entrance you. No lineup of salsas. Just a deep-fryer, a charcoal grill, and a wellspring of Nicaraguan recipes.
Owners Switenia and Angel are in front of their kitchen station at “Fritanga Mi Parrilla,” where the former takes your orders and explains the menu to people, like me, who are confused and ignorant about the non-taquería foods being served.