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In Arcadia, an International Noodle Master Offers a ‘Secret Menu’ Four-Foot-Long Noodle

1:56 PM PST on February 11, 2021

[dropcap size=big]I[/dropcap]n Chinese culture, there’s meaning in everything—especially food. With the Chinese (Lunar) New Year beginning Friday, there’s another chance to get a fresh start after an, especially harrowing year.  

For Esther Yuan, partner and manager of Lan Noodle, it’s time for “one bowl, one noodle.” The longevity noodle served at her restaurant is about three to four feet long and symbolizes the long life ahead. As the lore and tradition go, the extra-long length is also for protecting people from any danger. 

When Yuan first arrived in Los Angeles, she craved the taste of home but couldn’t find it anywhere. She decided that Angelenos needed the experience of authentic Lanzhou noodles in their lives. So, in the summer of 2019, Lan Noodle came to life in Arcadia with Chef Chengshan Gao’s help. Unlike most noodle joints across L.A., Lanzhou noodles are handmade for every customer and come in eight traditional sizes.

Braised Beef Noodle with 'Triangle noodle.' Photos courtesy of Esther Yuan.

Yuan said Chef Gao is one of the top five Lanzhou noodle makers in China, and he dominates his kitchen with his Kung Fu-inspired technique. Casually hand-pulling dough and blindly throwing it over his shoulder straight into a boiling hot pot, he displays edible art in motion.