Skip to Content
Featured

Snapper Friday: The Burger at Father’s Office Is a Torta

12:24 PM PST on January 31, 2020

[dropcap size=big]B[/dropcap]y now we’re all familiar with the no substitutions rule with Father’s Office’s burger but if I could ask for one modification? Change the name and call it a torta. 

The torta umbrella fits chef Sang Yoon’s creation better than a burger. At its base elements, a torta can be as simple as meat and cheese but can be as complicated or complex as the maker desires. In a one-to-one comparison, a typical torta has plenty of meat, cheese, and produce sandwiched between a telera or bolillo, which can be argued to be another version of a French roll. 

All elements of which are present in The Office Burger®.

There are really no guidelines to what a torta is and could be, but my rule of thumb is this: All tortas are sandwiches but not all sandwiches are tortas. What makes a torta a torta is the bread, or in Father’s Office’s case, a bolillo, A.K.A., that french roll. “I liked the oval shape because visually it didn't look like a burger." Yoon has even partially admitted this claim in the past, explaining the thought process behind the bread, “This bun doesn't have a lot of character, it's almost bland, but that allows it to absorb the flavors.”

That’s the same spirit of a torta. The bread on its own is fine but it’s more about what it houses and how it’s cooked. 

What disqualifies Yoon’s masterpiece from being a burger? Nothing. It just fits the torta categorization so much better. Both aesthetically and spiritually.

Far before smashburgers dominated the burgerverse, Yoon’s torta sparked the gourmet burger craze. And it deserves respect beyond setting off a trend: It pushes the boundary of a sandwich. The slightly funky dry-aged beef is the kind of punch you see from a mile away but are helpless to dodge it. The blue cheese and caramelized onion combines with the beefy punch so beautifully that you might have an existential crisis or call your dad apologizing for shit you did as a kid. 

After tasting it, you understand the policy behind the no substitutions, a policy which was created by necessity and lack of space. Yoon recalls that the infamous no subs rule was not a fuck you to the picky eater, but that same rule is the part of the torta's cult reputation. Rather Father’s Office first kitchen was too small and didn’t have the pantry and ingredients to accommodate the modifications.

P.S. Don’t even get me started on why Chef Ludo Lefebvre’s Big Mec is actually just a torta ahogada.

What disqualifies Yoon’s masterpiece from being a burger? Nothing. It just fits the torta categorization so much better. Both aesthetically and spiritually. Yes, The Office Burger® torta is a masterclass in European techniques and ingredients but Yoon is not a stranger to Mexican food, you can find a pork belly al pastor sope on the same menu as the lauded burger. All this to say, Yoon knows it’s a torta but called it a burger to appease the masses (not really).

“The Office sandwich” doesn’t have the same panache as “The Office torta.” is it a burger? Yes. Is it a sandwich? Yes. And is it a torta? Without a doubt.

So what do you say chef Yoon, do you mind making one technical modification to your masterpiece?

P.S. Don’t even get me started on why Chef Ludo Lefebvre’s Big Mec is actually just a torta ahogada.

Already a user?Log in

Thanks for reading!

Register to continue

Become a Member

Stay in touch

Sign up for our free newsletter

More from L.A. TACO

The Last Remaining Ramone Performed In Echo Park Last Night

Marky Ramone’s Blitzkrieg started their hour-long set with “Do You Wanna Dance” and ebbed and flowed through classics from the early-to-middle Ramones era, including their later hits, such as “R.A.M.O.N.E.S.” and even an extremely heartfelt rendition of Joey Ramone’s masterpiece, “What a Wonderful World.”

February 23, 2024

What To Eat This Weekend: Mexican Chocolate Kava, New Khachapuri, and Quentin Tarantino’s Coffee Shop

Plus a non-alcoholic bottle shop, fries covered with fried jalapenos, and a pork belly-and-kim chi pizza from two major Downtown chefs.

February 23, 2024

The 13 Best Tacos In Downtown Los Angeles

From crispy yellowfin flautas to mesquite-grilled costilla (rib) asada tacos, downtown Los Angeles is one of the city's most taco-stacked neighborhoods. Whether you're driving by, bar crawling, or taking public transit through it, here are the best tacos found in all corners of DTLA.

February 22, 2024

Justice 8 Supporters Feel Defeat At Latest Ruling. Enamorado Reported to Be Bleeding While Jailed

Enamorado's attorney alleges, "He is not getting the treatment he deserves for what is a valid medical reason.” Nonetheless, the supporters for The Justice 8 are bracing themselves to keep fighting.

February 20, 2024

West Hollywood’s Outdoor ‘Consumption Lounge’ Is a One-Of-Its-Kind Sneak Peek Into the Future of Dispensaries

Come take a look as the L.A. TACO team tours and enjoys a private tree-house cabana at The Woods dispensary, the only consumption lounge of its kind in L.A. County. It was a great day of "work" we'll never forget.

February 20, 2024
See all posts