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Personal Essay

Opinion: Is Canceling Noma L.A. Louder Than Reforming the Systems That Made It?

Reflections from an editor caught In the crossfire.

4:59 PM PDT on March 17, 2026

A Noma mosh pit. Art by Ivan Ehlers for L.A. TACO.

A Noma mosh pit. Art by Ivan Ehlers for L.A. TACO.

Two nights ago, I woke up at 4 a.m. Racing through my mind was one thought:

“Can you accurately say that Noma is “columbising and extracting nopales” to serve on their menu if their head chef for the last two years is a chilango from Mexico City and they are sourcing their masa directly from two of L.A.’s best tortillerías? Kernel of Truth Organics and Komal?” 

This Noma controversy has shaken up the international food media world, and dozens of people have personally hit me up about it.

A local podcaster accused L.A.TACO and me, by full name, of not doing enough on both our social media channels and our website to cover Noma, despite covering the protest on opening day. 

Blazing it out of Danish apple outside of Noma in Copenhagen in 2025. Photo by Javier Cabral for L.A. TACO.

He was accusing L.A.TACO of being a site “sitting under the guise of local journalism” and said that we deserve a “shitty Yelp review” for it, inaccurately stating we are “sitting this one out” despite the host acknowledging that we did indeed report on it. We published a video that covered the protest in full, along with an article on our website.