[dropcap size=big]T[/dropcap]he first time I tried mango sticky rice, I had a Ratatouille moment where I peered into the universe and finally understood the appeal of arroz con leche. Mango sticky rice is a dessert that originates from Thailand but is eaten throughout Southeast Asia. The dessert consists of juicy slices of mango with sweet coconut sticky rice. Part of the reason the Thai dessert works so well for me is the texture of the rice. Where arroz con leche is characteristic for its mushy texture, the grains still have individuality in mango sticky rice. Each grain of sticky rice is bound together with the coconut sauce, made of palm sugar, salt, and coconut cream. If only my mom had the wherewithal to add mango to her arroz con leche.
A big part of constructing a good mango sticky rice is the ripeness of the mango. “My mom is such a stickler for the ripeness of mangoes,” says Justin Pichetrungsi, owner and chef of Anajak Thai, “She’ll have me drive around with the cases in my car, just so they’ll become riper faster, almost until the skin becomes wrinkly.” Equally vital to the dish is how the mango is sliced to properly portion the mango and rice for equal flavor distribution. The sticky rice is slightly overcooked so that once it’s mixed with the coconut cream sauce, it gets that glossy appearance.
In L.A., mango sticky rice is varied by its toppings, type of rice, and colors. Some prefer a pared-down approach, using only the two titular ingredients (and coconut syrup), but others employ the use of the more fibrous purple sticky rice, or pandan leaf to impart more coconut flavor to the rice, or even shaped like a heart, as a visual reminder of the delicious majesty of the dessert dish.