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Bison Tacos and Wild Venison Flautas at Echo Park’s Most Controversial Former Vegan Restaurant

Antojitos get the wild game and Indigenous protein treatment at Sage Vegan Bistro in Echo Park, but are they intriguing enough to lure you away the chile colorado at El Ruso across the street?

1:25 PM PDT on September 12, 2024

3 wild venison, tallow-fried flautas at Sage Regenerative Kitchen

Wild venison, tallow-fried flautas at Sage Regenerative Kitchen photo by Hadley Tomicki for L.A. TACO

Maybe it’s the fallen vegetarian in us. Maybe we love the smell of death threats in the morning.

Whatever our damage, we’re sitting at Sage Regenerative Kitchen & Bistro in Echo Park on September 11th, trying to bury the ghosts of an office view from the 106th floor of the World Trade Center, one eye sentry over our shoulder for religious zealots toting AR-15s or an enraged animal rights activist with a butcher knife.

Formerly known as Sage Vegan Bistro, a staunch shelter of cruelty-free dining with two L.A. locations, the restaurant vaulted to the center of controversy this past spring following its rechristening as Sage Regenerative Kitchen, which followed its decision to begin serving dairy, meat, and eggs from regenerative farms.

Apoplectic that this tabernacle of tempeh was turning its back on unconditional veganism and the tenants of ahimsa, former fans now spewed invective, threats, and poxes-upon-the-home of owner and lifelong vegetarian Mollie Engelhart, whose father and stepmother founded Cafe Gratitude, the touchstone of hippie-souled, capitalist-spirited vegan eateries. PETA was pissed.