As we scanned L.A.’s horizon for tacos, we saw the roaring fires of a new street food vanguard bivouacked among our blocks.
Kebab stands suddenly seem to be everywhere in the city these days, outpacing the proliferation of hibachi trucks and smashburgers, and nearly rivaling the storied ranks of our taco trucks and taco tables.
This flourishing of one of humanity’s oldest forms of cooking–meat impaled on a stick, roasted over a fire–on our boulevards makes perfect sense for a city that loves to eat on-the-go without sacrificing quality; pulled to the side of the road, shrouded in smoke, savoring the immediacy of a barbecued dish torn straight from the flames by the hands of a cook steeped in generations of knowledge.