Tijuanazo, whose family-led owners just opened Taquería Frontera in Cypress Park, also just opened the first U.S. location of its Tijuanazo chain in East Los Angeles.
Already, this newly transplanted taquería offers plenty to get excited about. It stands out on Atlantic Boulevard, even amid the extensive taco stand offerings surrounding East Los Angeles, with its meticulous approach to preparing each taco.
It is the eighth Tijuanazo, with the ninth planned to open in San Diego this month. The East L.A. location is spearheaded by Aria Esquivel, the 26-year-old daughter of Antonio Esquivel, who founded and operates all of Tijuanzo’s locations in Tijuana. Aria’s older half-brother opened the hit Frontera location in Cypress Park, which has some nuanced similarities but specific differences that leap out.
The tacos here are anything but rudimentary. Unlike so many you see around L.A., they’re not garnished with the typical cilantro, cebolla, and your pick of red or green salsa.
At Tijuanazo, there is a purposeful time and place for every tortilla and salsa to be served. The company is very selective about its tortillas, choosing handmade for some, pre-made for others, and even flour on request.
Every taco on the menu--and there is an entire arsenal--also has a salsa to go with it, as decided by Antonio. You can get whatever you want in the end, but have some trust in your taquero; they know best about these things.
Tijuanazo grills its asada over a fire, serving it with handmade tortillas layered with guacamole. Adobada is shaved off the spinning trompo onto a pre-made tortilla that offers better durability against the dripping marinade and a crispier bite. Then, it’s topped with Tijuanazo’s cilantro cream and slices of grilled pineapple.
Of all the meats that come out of the choricera pan, the suadero, tripas, and buche are more traditionally prepared, with durable pre-made tortillas, then garnished with just onions, cebolla, and a unique salsa that helps cut through their fatty juiciness. It offers cabeza, birria de res, and lengua, too.
As if the tacos weren’t unique enough, Tijuanazo offers other intriguing options. The taco Azteca uses a thin, succulent grilled nopal instead of a tortilla, which is all topped with asada and guacamole. If you don’t want nopal or tortillas, try a plate of their "fantasmas," with your choice of meat on a costra de queso (grilled cheese), beans on the side, and toasted tortillas.
The sopes have a buttery texture, are handmade, and are grilled with a spoonful of butter before getting topped with your meat choice and respective salsas and garnish. Perfect for the ‘no rice in my burrito’ crowd, there are burritos with just guacamole, meat, onions, cilantro, salsa, and some flavorful beans. Speaking of beans, their vasos de frijoles with cheese and added meat make for a robust bowl of flavor.
Aria Esquivel has been working on bringing Tijuanazo to Los Angeles for over two years. She chose East L.A. for its dense taco scene and the sense of Latinidad she feels she relates to the most.
She grew up on both sides of the border, eventually deciding to stay in Los Angeles with her grandma at age 15. She also counts on the support of her partner, Ray Loeza, who helps her manage deliveries from El Rancho Meat Market, where they source all their good-quality meat in Lincoln Heights, as she oversees the new taquería.
Antonio Esquivel is still heavily involved in aiding his daughter with the restaurant, primarily communicating with her on Facetime and sending his staff on six-month visas to get the taqueria going. His attention ensures Antonio’s meticulous processes and quality control remain intact. Tijuanazo also imports its tortillas from Tijuana's El Grano de Oro because every detail of every taco is of the utmost importance to the Tijuanazo family.
Tijuanazo ~ 355 S. Atlantic Blvd. East Los Angeles, CA 90022
